• Mike Sula
  • Cucumber, mint, yogurt, Pita Puff

Last week I used up considerable space lamenting the dreary Middle Eastern food at Logan Square’s Masada and its inverse relationship to the elaborate and lysergic decor. I’ve also spent considerable time over the last few years whinging about the overall decline in Middle Eastern food in Albany Park, once a bastion for the stuff that has long since ceded its preeminence to the southwest suburb of Bridgeview. One of the final nails in the coffin was the fall of Dawali, a relative latecomer to the neighborhood which started out promising enough in its spartan strip mall storefront, eclipsing all the older stalwarts, like Salem, Al Khaymeih, and Semiramis, with fresh, well-made standards from a culinary school grad, who made things look as good as they tasted. But once Dawali opened a Lincoln Park satellite a few years back things went downhill. The food lost its luster, and it was no surprise when the Albany Park flagship closed earlier this year.

  • Mike Sula
  • Pita Puff

Pita Puff, 4905 N. Kedzie, 773-267-4200, pitapuff.com