We had a lovely summer, didn’t we? The world was spiraling down a planet-size shit funnel of humanity’s own making, but at least it was warm, breezy, and sunny in Chicago. During the last sweet breaths of the season I ate at the Kennison, the new restaurant in the Hotel Lincoln, and I took every opportunity to order the fantastic corn we were blessed with this year. It was the culinary analogue to Nero’s fiddle.
Let’s see how he does. I zeroed in on a salad of purple beets, carved into perfect spheres propping up shards of rye toast and a creamy deviled egg bedazzled with salmon roe. The dish seemed to signal summer’s end. How about a tuna tartare that unleashes the pleasant burn of aji chile, surrounded by dabs of margarita gelee, a swish of avocado mousse, and masa crackers? Or ribbons of pappardelle tangled in a shredded rabbit sauce made gently sweet by peaches and lavender honey? Walker isn’t trying to coddle anyone with this beautiful, artfully plated food.
It’s likely that by the time you read this, the corn will be running out at the Kennison, along with much of the other wonderful produce Walker put on the menu this summer. But hey, apples are here. Squash is coming, grapes and root vegetables are on their way. I’m looking forward to seeing what he can do with all of that. v
1800 N. Lincoln 312-981-7070thekennison.com
