Baltimore, Maryland, that roiling crucible of Mexican culture, has sent Chicago a taqueria. It’s fair to wonder what the folks behind Barcocina think they have to offer a city with an infinity of opportunities to eat well in simple mom-and-pop taquerias, to say nothing of the recent rise of chef-driven taco spots.
Then again, how uptight can you be about something like that when you’re offered a “cheeseburger” taco that arrives swaddling underseasoned, dry ground beef, cabbage, unmelted shredded cheddar, and a mildly spicy mango sauce with the viscosity of Gerber baby food? If not for the stainless steel taco holders, these could be mistaken for something out of the Taco Bell playbook.
It’s not enough. Barcocina is somewhat evocative of Mexican food. But the way it’s executed underscores the worst stereotypes about this neighborhood: that it’s unthreatening, unchallenging, and unsurprising. Doesn’t Lakeview deserve better? Judging by the crowds flocking to Barcocina, I suspect not. v
2901 N. Sheffield 773-687-9949barcocinachicago.com
