- Mike Sula
- Oxtail, polenta, baby fennel at Cellar Door Provisions
If you must have a reason to venture out into the rimy hellscape of never-ending winter, I’m going to suggest it should be to hunch over the oxtail polenta at Logan Square’s Cellar Door Provisions and thank Providence for good grain and meat. It’s listed at the very bottom of the changing menu at this new, minimalist breakfast-and-lunch spot from some of the guys behind the underground dining posse Thurk. The warm corn mush is surprisingly light and buoyant, sweetened by garlic confit, and the tender braised meat is carefully extracted from the knobby vertebrae. A few garnishes of refreshing baby fennel complete a bowl as simple and delicate as it is fortifying and life affirming. It’ll thaw the ice-bound lump you once called a heart in no time.
- Mike Sula
- Cellar Door Provisions
Right now it’s just breakfast, lunch, and monthly dinners in this open, breezy space, which has just two two-tops and one long 14-seat communal table.
