• Mike Sula
  • Tonkotsu ramen, Strings Ramen Shop

I can’t help but beat my head against the truth that the current wave of ramen slingers who do a million other things besides ramen will never make a bowl as good as the ones I slurped at Ramen Misoya, the Japanese chain that opened last summer in Mount Prospect. It’s a belief I have to smother in the service of objectivity every time I try a new bowl at a place that also happens to make sushi, or whatever filler they use to pad the menu for people who can’t deal with a restaurant that doesn’t have 180 options.

The latter two broths are nearly indistinguishable. They’re both pleasingly sticky with rendered collagen and just a hint of animal funk—the miso ramen perhaps a bit more so—and both offer the chance to upgrade the pork quotient with pieces of grilled Kurobuta chashu. Yet despite that 48-hour bone bath, the broth in each is surprisingly flat, missing depth and body. This is a noble effort, but it’s lacking the character even of Wicker Park’s Oiistar, where the depthless broth is ruined by overseasoning.

  • Mike Sula

  • Chazuke duck, Strings Ramen

  • Mike Sula

  • Strings Ramen Shop