Regular readers of Beer and Metal already know how I feel about doppelbocks and Belgian quads in the wintertime. Of course, when it’s cold enough for your eyelashes to freeze together, a Russian imperial stout hits the spot too—and late last month, Surly obliged Chicagoans by shipping bottles of Darkness here for the first time.

A lot has changed since then—I’ve tried many more imperial stouts, for one thing, and these days I can put away maybe 12 ounces of Dark Lord before it’s nap time. But Darkness remains one of my favorite examples of the style, and I can’t remember a vintage I like better than this one.

Darkness likewise has a desserty aroma: dried sour cherries covered in milk chocolate, Black Forest cake (sans the whipped cream), pralines, blackberry compote, date syrup, and caramel that’s almost burnt. Toward the tail end, I pick up black walnut, a whisper of espresso, and a bright spiciness like rye.

The video is at least reasonably metal. That owl looks like something from a Kvelertak T-shirt.