The list of chefs who’ve cooked under the Bayless banner and then gone out to spread the gospel of Rick is long: Kahan. Satkoff. Arreola. Valencia. Bahena. Pine. Enyart. I’m sure I’ve forgotten plenty, but there’s no arguing that this diaspora has affected the evolution of Mexican food in the United States in much the same way that Charlie Trotter’s many minions have influenced fine dining everywhere. Anselmo Ramirez, a native of the southern Mexican state of Guerrero and a longtime cook at Frontera Grill and Topolobampo, is the latest to strike out on his own, bringing a somewhat dated but very much needed breath of fresh cilantro to Albany Park.
Ramirez’s claim to fame is his stygian mole, with subtle chile heat and bitter chocolate notes, the ideal accompaniment for relatively neutral-flavored garlic mashed potatoes and sliced chicken breast. There’s nothing wrong with that breast–it’s moist and adequately cooked–but I think in general people can agree it’s the most boring part of the chicken. Put out a couple thighs or legs and you’d have something.
This story was corrected to reflect that Ramirez’s daughters are working in the front of the house.
3402 W. Montrose 773-539-587ixcatecogrill.com
