The Chef: Tony Mantuano (Spiaggia, Terzo Piano, Bar Toma, the new River Roast)The Challenger:John Coletta (Quartino)The Ingredient: Salt cod

Instead of trying yet again to re-create Grandma Mantuano’s recipe, the chef made a dish that involved poaching the salt cod in olive oil. First, though, he had to soak it: the preserved cod is so dry and salty that it’s “completely inedible,” he says, and requires a day or two of soaking (and changing the water frequently) before it can be cooked. Mantuano speculated that an easy way to do this might be to put the salt cod in the water tank of a toilet, so that the water would be changed every time the toilet was flushed. “I don’t recommend trying that at home, nor do we do it at Spiaggia,” he jokes. “My grandmother might have done it.”

Baccala With Purgatory Beans and Truffles

1 cup dried purgatory beans, soaked in cold water overnight, drained 1 yellow onion, cut into quarters 1 carrot, peeled, cut into chunks 1 stalk celery, cut into chunks 1 pound reconstituted salt cod, cut into one-inch squares 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Fresh truffles for shaving

To serve, transfer the puree to four warm plates. Divide the beans equally among the plates. With a slotted spoon, place the poached cod onto each plate. Shave truffles over each and serve immediately.