The sign outside Más, a new West Loop Mexican restaurant, makes the place look a bit like a Swedish health clinic. “Más,” of course, is the Spanish word for “more,” and on the slate-colored board there’s a red plus sign. The symbol is repeated inside the sleek restaurant too, where it’s topped by an accent mark and printed on the menus and on the backs of the servers’ black shirts; from the corner of my eye it prompted a few double takes as I imagined I was glimpsing the satanic cross.
In fact, underseasoning sinks many of the dishes, from three fat pork-and-beef meatballs with chipotle salsa and truffled black-bean puree to a rib eye loaded with chimichurri, superthin fries, grape tomatoes, cheese, and beans. I suspect these torrents of competing ingredients create the culinary equivalent of white noise. And yet bright, vibrant garnishes weren’t enough to disguise the odor or taste of a red snapper crudo, whose age announced its arrival before it hit the table.
800 W. Washington 312-243-1995barmaschicago.com
