Michael Mina is one of those high-wattage celebrity chefs whose light shines so bright it makes me turn away. Didn’t really know much about the guy. Didn’t really care to. But he is a prolific restaurateur, with more than 30 spots to his name in ten states (plus D.C. and Dubai), so I suppose it was inevitable he would open one here, and that would be how I’d finally begin to get to know the food of Michael Mina.
So what has he brought to the table for them? Or rather, what is former Dawson chef Brent Balika, who previously worked for Mina at Bourbon Steak in D.C., executing for him? You know the drill: moules frites, tartare, onion soup, and steak frites; the food of the sans-culottes. The prices aren’t quite so revolutionary, with less prosaic classics like that sole, the dish that seduced Julia Child, weighing in at $59 dollars.
Desserts are distinguished by a large chocolate macaron sandwiching raspberries and chocolate creme, and an irresistible banana tarte Tatin slathered in citrus-spiked caramel with a gob of melted honey ice cream. Don’t be tempted by the cheese chariot. The wan and limited selection makes it feel like choosing from a gurney in a cheese hospice.
11 E. Walton 312-625-1324michaelmina.net
