- Mike Sula
- Barbecue combo, Old Crow Smokehouse
Wrigleyville, Lakeview, and Lincoln Park have been saturated with new barbecue spots in recent times, a few of them sporting the sort of ersatz hillbilly shtick that would make Larry the Cable Guy grimace, and even fewer delivering on acceptable barbecue. It’s incredible to me that we haven’t reached a tipping point—but they just keep coming. One of the more ambitious of these recent projects is Old Crow Smokehouse in Wrigleyville, 10,500 square feet of kountry-roadhouse kitsch, featuring 20 TVs, a soundtrack of the worst commercial country music Nashville is capable of producing, and a posse of indolent waitresses in short skirts and cowboy boots serving drinks in plastic glasses—because, presumably, the patrons can’t be trusted not to smash them over each other’s heads on game day. Wrigleyville gets what it deserves.
- Mike Sula
- Old Crow Smokehouse
Old Crow Smokehouse, 3506 N. Clark, 773-537-4452, oldcrowsmokehouse.com
