Despite its recent enthusiasm for beckoning cool restaurateurs to Hyde Park, the University of Chicago didn’t always want to be part of the city surrounding it. Beginning in the 50s, the university adopted urban renewal initiatives meant to control what it viewed as encroaching blight—and in the process destroyed commercial districts, sent thousands of poor African-Americans packing, and turned the neighborhood into a grim fortress.
Yes, they sure are proud of their fireplace at the Promontory, which is used to variously sear strip loin and ahi tuna (“fast”), slow-roast lamb and pork ribs (“embers”), char the vegetables employed in reimagined classic dishes (“historic”), and even to somehow char vermouth used in a “hearth Manhattan”—an egregious interpretation that tastes like a shot of Fireball.
There are good things to be found on the menu, and generally they’re simple dishes not trying so hard to be cute (or to outright reject history). Korean-style grilled short ribs make a nice, gnarly snack, served with seared shishito peppers in a sweet marinade. A trio of spreads, each paired with complementary garnishes—truffled white bean with chanterelles, green chickpea hummus with buttery pine nuts, black olive tapenade with grilled eggplant—makes for great snacking, as does a simple plate of olives with a slab of gooey charred feta, notwithstanding an unfortunate baguette so stale someone must have walked it down to Hyde Park from the North Shore.
5311 S. Lake Park 312-801-2100promontorychicago.com
