- Michael Gebert
- Kurosawa saba “megamaki” at Momotaro
Jeff Ramsey, the head sushi chef at Momotaro, which opens tonight, waxed poetic about the fish from Japanese waters for a small audience of food journalists. “The waters of Japan are especially nutrient rich,” he said. “Japan has all these crinkly little coves along the edge, it has more coastline than America. So there are all these little inlets where the fish feed.”
Two items we sampled are so minimalist they don’t even include fish—they’re sushi built around Momotaro’s namesake, a breed of Japanese tomato. One is compressed tomato, sliced as if it were tuna and placed atop rice; the other is a “tartare” made of the same tomato, dehydrated and shredded into what seems some kind of meat, then seasoned the way beef tartare would be, with mustard and onion.
