Mezcal and other agave distillates (sotol, raicilla, bacanora) are becoming ever more prevalent. Forget about smoke and worms: it’s easy to become lost in the universe of these spirits’ unique flavor profiles and aromas, and in the different terroirs, plants, artisanal production methods, and personal stories behind the bottles. There’s plenty of industrial-grade mezcal on the market, but when it comes to the myriad of small-batch maestros whose distillates are making it north of the border in increasing volumes, you really need someone who’s been steeped in the spirit world to guide you. These days, most of Chicago’s mezcalerias are stocking with an eye toward long-term sustainability of the industry, focusing on brands that give back to the Mexican communities they came from by helping with infrastructure improvements, replanting, and education. Here’s where to go to find the good stuff.
Quiote There’s no better place to appreciate the vast complexity of more than 90 agave spirits than Quiote’s dark, womblike, subterranean bar. Bottles are also available for purchase upstairs, as are sal de gusano (worm salt), sal de chapulines (cricket salt), and the tiny handmade drinking vessels known as copitas—proceeds benefit S.A.C.R.E.D.
Where to find the sacred plant
Swap-O-Rama On weekends you can find fresh pencas de maguey, or agave leaves, for sale to wrap your goat for birria or pork for cochinita pibil. Sometimes roasted agave hearts are on hand, not for distilling mezcal (that would be illegal), but for making vinegar or gnawing like sugarcane.
