What are you afraid of? The dark? Dogs? Not making rent? White supremacists? Your own potential? Sickness and death?
The chef, Rey Villalobos, was summoned from Art Smith’s Blue Door Kitchen, the Gold Coast mothership, where he’s chef de cuisine. But here he’s offering three squares a day instead of two, with weekday breakfast including juice, coffee, fruit plates, oatmeal, pancakes, and something called a “brown line wrap.”
There’s hummus, kale chips, and kale-and-artichoke dip that will surely appease whatever loving God you believe is supervising your existence. But if you want to stick your thumb in his eye, you can sneak out and visit the carny with a pile of battered and fried cheese curds, topped with ringlets of sweet pickled pepper and drizzled with buttermilk dip and your endangered soul.
Escapist good intentions abound at Blue Door Farm Stand. The rural fantasy is convincing only so far as you’re willing to be convinced. What’s harder to overlook is the kind of uninspired conventionality that should frighten more intrepid eaters. v
2010 N. Halsted 312-265-0259 bluedoorfarmstand.com
