Lake Davenport isn’t blue or sparkling. It isn’t even a lake—just the muddy Mississippi as it flows past Davenport, Iowa. The Lake Davenport Sailing Club, founded 1935, hosts races on the river Wednesdays and Sundays, Memorial Day through November. One of the first things beginners learn is to steer clear of the dam downstream, past the old Wonder Bread factory.
Like other cities in the Rust Belt, the Quads have tried to reinvent themselves, setting up riverfront entertainment districts with attractions such as brewpubs and art galleries, Moline’s iWireless Center (home of minor-league hockey team the Quad City Mallards), and Davenport’s Figge Art Museum. The John Deere Classic, a PGA stop, has raised both its purse and its profile in recent times; at this year’s, July 7 through 13, reigning champ 20-year-old Jordan Speith will be back to defend his title.
Correction: This story has been amended to correctly reflect that the Quad City Downs no longer has harness racing, that the Figge Art Museum has been around since 2005, and that the packets of hot sauce accompany Happy Joe’s taco pizza specifically.
Getting there
Drive, and take the tollway—it’s quickest (and should take about three and a half hours). I-74 is the main bridge between Moline and the Iowa side.
Where to stay
The Hotel Blackhawk (203 E. Third, Davenport, 888-525-4455, hotelblackhawk.com) is newly remodeled and looking swanky, but there are options from B&Bs to budget motels at visitquadcities.com.
Where to eat
Joe’s Club (1402 W. Seventh, Davenport, 563-324-0087) is a bar owned by Joe Seng, an Iowa state senator and veterinarian who on Friday nights plays piano and sings; his guests sometimes perform as well. It’s an older crowd, for sure—you might catch my mom on drums—but most everything on the menu, including beers and shots, is a dollar (the tenderloin and burgers went up to $2.50 not long ago).
What to do
In addition to Blackhawk Park, as the locals call it, there are natural attractions including Davenport’s Nahant Marsh (nahantmarsh.org), a large urban wetland; check out qcwildplaces.com.
