It seems churlish to complain about the lack of ramen on the far north side when we’ve got so much pho and also a fair amount of matzo ball soup, but I can’t help feeling a twinge of envy when I read about all the exciting new ramen joints opening in Logan Square and Wicker Park. Is there some reason why those of us who live on the upper reaches of the Red Line don’t get to slurp our dinners, too? Is this some sort of punishment for no one volunteering to save the Sunshine Cafe in Andersonville when its former owner retired? Are we now forever unworthy?
The basic ramen comes with two slices of chasu pork and the regular garnishes of scallions, nori, wakame, and sesame seeds; per our server’s recommendation, I added corn and soft-cooked eggs. (The headwaiter had returned to the kitchen to play with his two siblings.) It arrived at the table cloudy with fat and so stippled with droplets of oil, I could barely see the noodles. This sounds absolutely disgusting, I realize, but ramen is one of those foods that should make you realize why some forms of fat have been declared OK again. I’m not exactly sure if tonkotsu fat is OK from a health standpoint, but from a taste standpoint, it is absolutely necessary. The fat gives the broth enough fullness and body so that it coats the inside of your mouth and the rich flavor lingers pleasantly for an extra moment or two. It made me very happy. (The ramen’s other supplements were good, too, but it was the broth that really did it for me.)
Futatsuki Ramen, 4621 N. Broadway, 773-561-9999, futatsukiramenchicago.com
